
9/11/2001.
The day the sky exploded, and rained fire, and people fell as stones, we were walking a stretch of the south west coast path. Oblivious – which was possible before smart phones.
The exact itinerary escapes me. We had left London behind, parked our car in Plymouth, sent our baggage ahead, and started to walk. I thought I was fit from walking up and down escalators on the Piccadilly Line. But this was something else.
The two of us, in barely-worn-in boots, nodding to countryside people out for a brisk half hour with their happy dogs. But for long-stretches of time and place we were alone.
It was beautiful and terrifying. At the top of one climb, a treeless field jutted out into the sea. Walking through the green waving-grasses was like wading through water. The ground sloped towards the horizon, and in the absence of anything between the edge of the world and me, surrounded on three sides by sky and sea water, I felt that I was falling. Trembling, I started to sweat, cold. My clothes sticking to me, though it was windy. I could see and feel my feet on firm ground. The green field surrounded me. I was nowhere near the edge. But the sense that I was falling overwhelmed me. Trying to make light of it, I took P’s hand, holding it too tightly, “Not good with heights, even a ladder.”
He tried to make me walk faster and closer to the edge, which was the quickest way across. He was grabbing my hand now and swinging my arm. Petrified, that we would trip and roll uncontrolled over the edge, my head suddenly a dead weight, I crouched low so as not to have so far to fall. He saw the look on my face and stopped.
Grey overcast sky and a sea flecked with pale ash grey.
Was it the day after, or before that I bought two pottery cats: one ginger, one black. Cute. Crafted for tourists. I think it was a few days later, when seeing the same style of cat from the same pottery in different town shops, I finally gave in to the kitsch because they were cats, and I was on holiday. I told P. the ginger tom looked like him. Particularly around the middle and he poked me and tickled until I said, stop, or I’ll drop them and have to pay anyway.
There was a night later in Fowey, after he bought me an under-priced US first edition Beat writer, and after we sat on the harbour listening to drunken singing from the working men’s club, when we tried to be tender and ended up clumsy and crying. I should have known then that the time for us to marry was in the past. I should have cancelled the wedding before the invitations were printed and sent, and far too much time and money were spent.
I guess I didn’t want to walk alone.
But also we loved each other very much. Loved cooking steaks, and queuing for fresh fish and chips, and reading in bed, and drinking red wine at lock-ins, and going to the football, and watching Bergman films (both short-sighted from reading too much as kids, wearing our thick glasses to read the sub-titles), and sleeping pressed into the curve of the other’s belly and knees.
So on the day the sky exploded in a fury of jet fuel and caused the twin towers to collapse in New York, we were really quite happy.
Oblivious. Until, that evening, we sat in a bar and watched on the news how the world, as we knew it, had ended in horror and falling.
e.antoniou
For as long as I can remember, I have woken every morning with a tight knot in my stomach.